From: "Dawn Gabig, Classique" To: "Julie Rachelle" Subject: CRATE TRAINING A PUPPY Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 08:48:16 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_05BB_01CA56E2.398D2730" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6001.18000 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6001.18049 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_05BB_01CA56E2.398D2730 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable CRATE TRAINING A PUPPY by Doreen Malone Taken from the December, 1988 AKC Gazette One of the first things an owner teaches a newly acquired puppy is not = to eliminate inside the house. There are many methods to achieve this, = and most are successful--eventually. But most breeders will agree that = the best method by far for housetraining a puppy is using a crate. = Breeders and trainers long have known the benefits of crates, but new = pet owners may not be as well informed. Many owners who have never used a crate think that keeping a puppy in a = "cage" is cruel, but the truth is that when the crate is used correctly, = the dog learns to look upon the crate as his own place. Since the dog = likes to sleep in a den-like setting, he will seek out the crate when he = wishes to rest undisturbed. It takes time, consistency, and common sense to crate train a puppy = properly, but eventually one who has been properly crate trained will = not mind being crated when the family goes out and cannot take him = along. The owner can relax and enjoy peace of mind knowing that the dog = is quite comfortable and is not destroying the house. The reason for the crate's success in housetraining a pup is equally = simple. If a pup can possibly help it, he will not soil his sleeping = area. Even though a crate is very useful as an aid in housetraining a = pup, don't expect miracles. An eight-week old puppy just cannot control = that active bladder yet and he doesn't know what is expected of him. = The best approach for this age is to ignore the mistakes for now, and = praise him for going in the right place. Use the crate when you can't = watch the puppy but don't overuse it. A puppy needs to play but if he = is constantly crated he will fast become a wild and unruly pup that his = owner cannot hope to keep up with. Make sure that he gets time out of = the crate to exercise. STEP ONE IN TRAINING Assemble the crate and put it in a location close to other family = members such as in the bedroom at night, because the pup prefers to be = close to his owners, so the effects of separation (crying, howling, = etc.) are lessened. then, it's easy enough to move the crate to the = kitchen or family room during the day so he still can feel a part of his = family. Before you put the pup in the crate, remove his collar to prevent its = entanglement in the crate and because tiny legs can also get caught in = it. When you first put the puppy in the crate, he will bark, whine or = cry unless his breeder has already crate trained him. But just put him = in, offer him a treat and close the door. Leave the room but remain = just outside in order to audit the puppy's behavior. At the first sign = of a separation response such as barking, whining, or howling, intervene = with a sharp "No!" The pup should associate the startling voice with = his actions and stop. The puppy will usually settle down after four or = five attempts at emotional responses. Once he is quiet, keep him in the crate for 30 to 45 minutes. After = that time, if he starts crying take him outside so he can relieve = himself and after he has accomplished that, praise him, take him back in = the house and allow him free time out of the crate. If he starts = chewing something other than one of his toys, respond with a sharp "No!" = and take it from him, replacing it with a toy. After 15 to 20 minutes of free time to romp and play, put him back in = the crate for a nap. If he cries, repeat the procedure of correcting him = with a sharply raised voice. Because he is learning through = association, consistency should help him accept being in the crate after = only a few tries. When he has been quiet in the crate for an hour or = so, repeat the steps of taking him outside, praising him, and then = leaving him out for free time. Be advised, too, that a pup will have to eliminate directly upon waking = and shortly after eating or playing. Also a very young puppy will not = be able to hold his urine all night, so be prepared to be awakened = during the night to take him out. As terrible as walking a dog at four = a.m. sounds, it's preferable to allowing him to soil his crate. Take the puppy on lead outside immediately after letting him out of the = crate. Rush him to the door or carry him if he is small so he can avoid = an accident, and be sure he does relieve himself. With the possible exception of the first few nights of confinement, the = pup usually will not soil his bed. Never place newspapers on the bottom = of his crate. These will only encourage him to soil his crate. After = you are sure that he isn't wetting his bed, you may give him a blanket = or towel, but he may be more comfortable without one. [Note: = newspapers will only encourage him to soil his crate if he was kept on = newspaper as a puppy and eliminated there. If he was never kept on = newspaper, he wouldn't consider newspaper any different from a towel.] Gradually lengthen the amount of time that he is allowed to play, but = don't give him more time than he can handle without having an accident. = By the time he is five or six months old, he should be able to control = himself for an hour or so between trips outside. It's important not to = encourage the pup to cry by taking him out every time he makes a fuss. = However, neither do you want to encourage him to soil his crate, so use = common sense here. If he has relieved himself and doesn't need a drink, = correct him for crying and make him stay in the crate. STRUCTURED LEARNING The crate is also useful as an aid in curbing destructive behavior. If = you use a crate while raising a puppy, you won't have to worry about = uncontrolled chewing. Many owners have returned home to find furniture = shredded and floors and walls chewed. If a puppy chews when you leave = the house, crate train him so you can leave him for a few hours with = peace of mind. As he matures and proves himself capable of being loose = in the home without destroying it, give him that privilege. But don't = give him responsibility that he cannot handle. Obviously, if a puppy = can't get to it, he can't chew it. But remember that the crate itself = cannot stop the puppy's desire to chew while he is teething, so provide = him with safe chewable toys [and raw marrow bones]. If the dog = continues to chew beyond the teething stage, he is probably bored, so = spend more time with him. By the time the pup is eight months old, he should be able to walk = around the house for most of the day as long as he has been taken out to = relieve himself. By one year of age, he should be mature enough to be = trusted all night in the house, but keep the crate set up with the door = open. The dog will be very attached to his "den" by now and will look = for it. He can also be crated when you leave the house for a few hours. = Keep in mind however, that the dog is expected not to destroy your = house, so return that favor by keeping his crate clean. Respect his = privacy in the crate and teach children that if the dog wants attention = he will come to them. The crate should be the one spot in the home that = belongs to the dog. GOOD THINGS IN SMALL PACKAGES Crates come in many different styles, types and sizes. Choosing a crate = depends on personal preference, and most kinds will serve the purpose = well. The crate should be large enough for an adult dog of your puppy's = breed to lay down, stand up and turn around in without difficulty. A = crate that is too small will not be comfortable for the dog, and one too = large may encourage the puppy to soil it. The fiberglass airline crates are great for shipping a dog by air, and = many breeders use them at home. However, avoid airline crates with zinc = nuts and bolts, since they're poisonous if swallowed. My preference is = the wire crates because they fold up, so they are more portable than = those made of fiberglass. Finally, be careful not to overuse the crate by keeping the dog in it = for long periods of time on a regular basis. In addition, it is very = important that the dog receives plenty of human companionship and = exercise when he's not in his crate. After all, the crate is a tool to = promote a happier, better behaved companion for his owner's sake and his = own. ------=_NextPart_000_05BB_01CA56E2.398D2730 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

CRATE = TRAINING A=20 PUPPY
by Doreen Malone

Taken from the = December, 1988 AKC=20 Gazette

 

One of the first things an owner teaches a newly = acquired puppy=20 is not to eliminate inside the house.  There are many methods to = achieve=20 this, and most are successful--eventually.  But most breeders will = agree=20 that the best method by far for housetraining a puppy is using a = crate. =20 Breeders and trainers long have known the benefits of crates, but new = pet owners=20 may not be as well informed.

Many owners who have never used a crate think that = keeping a=20 puppy in a "cage" is cruel, but the truth is that when the crate is used = correctly, the dog learns to look upon the crate as his own place.  = Since=20 the dog likes to sleep in a den-like setting, he will seek out the crate = when he=20 wishes to rest undisturbed.

It takes time, consistency, and common sense to crate = train a=20 puppy properly, but eventually one who has been properly crate trained = will not=20 mind being crated when the family goes out and cannot take him = along.  The=20 owner can relax and enjoy peace of mind knowing that the dog is quite=20 comfortable and is not destroying the house.

The reason for the crate's success in housetraining a = pup is=20 equally simple.  If a pup can possibly help it, he will not soil = his=20 sleeping area.  Even though a crate is very useful as an aid in=20 housetraining a pup, don't expect miracles.  An eight-week old = puppy just=20 cannot control that active bladder yet and he doesn't know what is = expected of=20 him.  The best approach for this age is to ignore the mistakes for = now, and=20 praise him for going in the right place.  Use the crate when you = can't=20 watch the puppy but don't overuse it.  A puppy needs to play but if = he is=20 constantly crated he will fast become a wild and unruly pup that his = owner=20 cannot hope to keep up with.  Make sure that he gets time out of = the crate=20 to exercise.

STEP ONE IN TRAINING
Assemble the crate and put it = in a=20 location close to other family members such as in the bedroom at night, = because=20 the pup prefers to be close to his owners, so the effects of separation = (crying,=20 howling, etc.) are lessened.  then, it's easy enough to move the = crate to=20 the kitchen or family room during the day so he still can feel a part of = his=20 family.

Before you put the pup in the crate, remove his collar = to prevent=20 its entanglement in the crate and because tiny legs can also get caught = in=20 it.  When you first put the puppy in the crate, he will bark, whine = or cry=20 unless his breeder has already crate trained him.  But just put him = in,=20 offer him a treat and close the door.  Leave the room but remain = just=20 outside in order to audit the puppy's behavior.  At the first sign = of a=20 separation response such as barking, whining, or howling, intervene with = a sharp=20 "No!"  The pup should associate the startling voice with his = actions and=20 stop.  The puppy will usually settle down after four or five = attempts at=20 emotional responses.

Once he is quiet, keep him in the crate for 30 to 45=20 minutes.  After that time, if he starts crying take him outside so = he can=20 relieve himself and after he has accomplished that, praise him, take him = back in=20 the house and allow him free time out of the crate.  If he starts = chewing=20 something other than one of his toys, respond with a sharp "No!" and = take it=20 from him, replacing it with a toy.

After 15 to 20 minutes of free time to romp and play, = put him=20 back in the crate for a nap. If he cries, repeat the procedure of = correcting him=20 with a sharply raised voice.  Because he is learning through = association,=20 consistency should help him accept being in the crate after only a few=20 tries.  When he has been quiet in the crate for an hour or so, = repeat the=20 steps of taking him outside, praising him, and then leaving him out for = free=20 time.

Be advised, too, that a pup will have to eliminate = directly upon=20 waking and shortly after eating or playing.  Also a very young = puppy will=20 not be able to hold his urine all night, so be prepared to be awakened = during=20 the night to take him out.  As terrible as walking a dog at four = a.m.=20 sounds, it's preferable to allowing him to soil his = crate.

Take the puppy on lead outside immediately after = letting him out=20 of the crate.  Rush him to the door or carry him if he is small so = he can=20 avoid an accident, and be sure he does relieve himself.

With the possible exception of the first few nights of=20 confinement, the pup usually will not soil his bed.  Never place = newspapers=20 on the bottom of his crate.  These will only encourage him to soil = his=20 crate.  After you are sure that he isn't wetting his bed, you may = give him=20 a blanket or towel, but he may be more comfortable without one. =20 [Note:  newspapers will only encourage him to soil his crate if he = was kept=20 on newspaper as a puppy and eliminated there.  If he was never kept = on=20 newspaper, he wouldn't consider newspaper any different from a=20 towel.]

Gradually lengthen the amount of time that he is = allowed to play,=20 but don't give him more time than he can handle without having an=20 accident.  By the time he is five or six months old, he should be = able to=20 control himself for an hour or so between trips outside.  It's = important=20 not to encourage the pup to cry by taking him out every time he makes a=20 fuss.  However, neither do you want to encourage him to soil his = crate, so=20 use common sense here.  If he has relieved himself and doesn't need = a=20 drink, correct him for crying and make him stay in the = crate.

STRUCTURED LEARNING
The crate is also useful as an = aid in=20 curbing destructive behavior.  If you use a crate while raising a = puppy,=20 you won't have to worry about uncontrolled chewing.  Many owners = have=20 returned home to find furniture shredded and floors and walls = chewed.  If a=20 puppy chews when you leave the house, crate train him so you can leave = him for a=20 few hours with peace of mind.  As he matures and proves himself = capable of=20 being loose in the home without destroying it, give him that = privilege. =20 But don't give him responsibility that he cannot handle.  = Obviously, if a=20 puppy can't get to it, he can't chew it.  But remember that the = crate=20 itself cannot stop the puppy's desire to chew while he is teething, so = provide=20 him with safe chewable toys [and raw marrow bones].  If the dog = continues=20 to chew beyond the teething stage, he is probably bored, so spend more = time with=20 him.

By the time the pup is eight months old, he should be = able to=20 walk around the house for most of the day as long as he has been taken = out to=20 relieve himself.  By one year of age, he should be mature enough to = be=20 trusted all night in the house, but keep the crate set up with the door=20 open.  The dog will be very attached to his "den" by now and will = look for=20 it.  He can also be crated when you leave the house for a few = hours. =20 Keep in mind however, that the dog is expected not to destroy your = house, so=20 return that favor by keeping his crate clean.  Respect his privacy = in the=20 crate and teach children that if the dog wants attention he will come to = them.  The crate should be the one spot in the home that belongs to = the=20 dog.

GOOD THINGS IN SMALL PACKAGES
Crates come in many = different=20 styles, types and sizes.  Choosing a crate depends on personal = preference,=20 and most kinds will serve the purpose well.  The crate should be = large=20 enough for an adult dog of your puppy's breed to lay down, stand up and = turn=20 around in without difficulty.  A crate that is too small will not = be=20 comfortable for the dog, and one too large may encourage the puppy to = soil=20 it.

The fiberglass airline crates are great for shipping a = dog by=20 air, and many breeders use them at home.  However, avoid airline = crates=20 with zinc nuts and bolts, since they're poisonous if swallowed.  My = preference is the wire crates because they fold up, so they are more = portable=20 than those made of fiberglass.

Finally, be careful not to overuse the crate by keeping = the dog=20 in it for long periods of time on a regular basis.  In addition, it = is very=20 important that the dog receives plenty of human companionship and = exercise when=20 he's not in his crate.  After all, the crate is a tool to promote a = happier, better behaved companion for his owner's sake and his=20 own.

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